Difficulty5.11
Land managerNPS
PermitNPS climbing rules; verify raptor closures

Climbing Area · Springdale

Sheer Lunacy

Sheer Lunacy is a bolted multi-pitch sport line in Zion — a rarity in a park whose climbing reputation is built almost entirely on trad and big-wall aid.

Sheer Lunacy is a bolted multi-pitch sport line in Zion — a rarity in a park whose climbing reputation is built almost entirely on trad and big-wall aid. The route runs roughly five hundred feet of Navajo sandstone, mostly in the 5.11 range, on a wall that climbers reach with a short hike from the scenic drive. It is the route Zion climbers point to when a partner asks for "a Zion multi-pitch where you don't have to place a single piece of gear."

A bolted line in a trad park

Most of Zion's climbing menu is trad cracks and aid lines on big walls. Sheer Lunacy is the exception — a fully bolted multi-pitch that climbs steep face on Navajo sandstone with the bolt placements you would expect on a sport climb at a sport crag. The grade stays around 5.11 across the route, with sustained sequences rather than single hard cruxes. The bolted character makes the route accessible to climbers with strong sport backgrounds who don't carry a Zion-style trad rack, and it gives the park a real multi-pitch sport option to point at.

NPS rules and the sandstone ethic

Sheer Lunacy falls under the standard Zion climbing rules. No bivy permit is needed for a day ascent. Seasonal raptor closures may apply, depending on year and which wall the route sits closest to; the NPS climbing page is the authoritative source. The standard sandstone ethics apply: no wet-rock climbing, no chipping, no new fixed gear without authorization. The bolts on Sheer Lunacy are maintained by the local climbing community, and re-bolting cycles have kept the hardware reliable.

Where it sits in the Zion menu

Sheer Lunacy fills a niche the rest of Zion's climbing menu can't. Climbers who want a long multi-pitch day in the park without committing to aid technique on a wall like Touchstone or Spaceshot route through Sheer Lunacy first. It also serves as a useful transition route — a climber comfortable on hard sport at the Wailing Wall or the Virgin River Gorge can step into Sheer Lunacy without learning new gear systems. Outside Tricks of the Trade and a few other multi-pitch options, Zion sport climbers don't have many places like it.

Last updated  ·  Apr 27, 2026